Eric – England Trip 2010

Getting to Know London

June 06 Tagged with: Beefeater, Buckingham Palace, bus, Eric, guard, hotel, Kevin, London, London Eye, tour, Tower of London

Jun 062010

Day 1: Instead of napping we decided to use the ‘force your body to time shift’ approach to jet lag – after checking into our apartment we went to breakfast and started sightseeing.

Apartment on Curzon Street

Our apartment is on Curzon Street in Mayfair – it’s small, but nice and very convenient to the tube; it’s also across the street from Shepherd Market, a small area with shops and restaurants. The spot we chose for breakfast was okay, but we’re not really used to runny eggs and English style bacon and hash browns. Tomorrow we’ll try eating in, though we also found some nice pastry cafes right across the street.

Walking through Green Park

Guard at Buckingham Palace

Burning off the bacon, we walked through Green Park and past Buckingham Palace, then jumped the “Original Tour” double decker bus to get situated and oriented to the city, disembarking for the Tower of London, then rejoining for the rest of the loop afterwards.

Kevin and Eric atop the tour bus

The tour of the Tower of London was quite entertaining – they are hosted by Yomen of the Guard who live within the walls. We learned about many beheadings, mucky moats, how to become a Beefeater, and nuances of armor.

Beefeater, Yeoman Warder and Tourguide

After the rest of the bus tour, including three loops through Trafalgar Square (where pigeons have been eradicated by fining humans for feeding them and sicking hawks on the birds that choose to stick around anyway), we returned home for a nap.

Late that afternoon a quick two stop ride in the tube took us back to the Thames for a ride on the London Eye. Even after 23 years of marriage I wasn’t aware of the depth of Sarah’s discomfort with heights until I asked her to take my picture near the top of the loop. Oops.

View from the top of the loop of the London Eye

We had a very nice meal at an Italian restaurant near the Eye, then hopped the tube for home. Time to finally get caught up on some of that sleep!

Oxford

June 08 Tagged with: Eric, Kevin, Oxford, tour

Jun 082010

Day 3: Tuesday began with pastries, coffee and hot chocolate across the street and a walk along Hyde Park to catch the bus to Oxford. We found that some of the most elite car dealers are along Park Lane next to the park – including Pagani, an exotic machine that isn’t imported into the US, so even Eric’s sightings of the car are rare.

We rode the Oxford Tube (which contrary to its name is a bus not a subway) to the city of Oxford, enjoying the view from the second level of the bus and taking advantage of free wifi to get caught up on things at home. Once in town we had an hour to kill before our campus tour, so we visited the Covered Market and a bookstore. About the time our tour started the rain began to fall, and it continued off and on for the rest of the day.

Rainy Oxford Tour

Students in Exam Dress

Oxford is a beautiful campus, divided in to colleges for living and learning. Most students that we saw were in their exam uniforms – white shirts and ties with black cloaks and a carnation on the lapel designating by color how far through exams the student is.

I’m sure there is much more to the city of Oxford than we saw, but it very much had the feel of a college town to it.

Oxford student crossing his quad in the rain

Kevin and Eric, getting partial shelter from the rain during the tour

The Oxford Electric Compnay (sic)

The Oxford Electric Compnay

Compnay (with a backwards “C”) – I might expect that as a Cockney accent, but at Oxford? Really?

Greenwich and a Green Witch

June 10 Tagged with: Eric, Greenwich, Kevin, lion, London, Royal Observatory, Thames, Thames Barrier, tour, Tower Bridge, Wicked

Jun 102010

Bow view of Tower Bridge

Thursday kicked off with a boat tour of the Thames from London to the Thames Barrier with a stop in Greenwich. Though it feels now as if the river banks are primarily high end housing and shopping, the water’s edge in London began as a shipping port for Ancient Rome and kept its Maritime focus of shipping, wharfs and ship building until the last few decades. In fact, the word “wharf” began as WareHouse Along River Front.

London has always been susceptible to flooding by the tides in the English Channel which affect the level of the Thames by up to seven meters. The decorative lion heads along the river walls were places for ships to tie up, but also acted as a water level warning to the citizens, “When the lions drink, London’s in danger.”

Lion's head along the river's edge.

To protect the city now, they have built the Thames Barrier – an enormous moveable dam downriver that can be closed during unusually high tides to keep the city from flooding. Since its construction in the 1980s, it has been used over 180 times to protect the city, with annual usage increasing. The Barrier was the farthest point on our boat tour and an impressive sight to see.

Thames Barrier

Thames Barrier piers. The barges are doing maintenance on one of the adjustable dams.

Greenwich was our only stop along the tour. We spent a couple hours at the original Royal Observatory: the defining point of the Prime Meridian (0 degrees longitude) and the longtime home of World Time, the standard time to which the rest of the world synchronizes.

In front of the Royal Observatory. I'm not sure what Kevin's thinking here.

The museum and tour explain the King’s original goal of setting up the observatory to collect astronomical data to aid navigation. It explains sextant navigation and the importance of accurate star data to calculate your longitude, and the necessity of an accurate sea-going clock to synchronize your observations with star data created elsewhere on earth. That ‘elsewhere’ was Greenwich, and thus it became defined as the Prime Meridian. The development of an accurate sea-going clock was so important that the government set up a 20,000 Pound prize for anyone who could build one. John Harrison claimed the prize in the 1760s after 40 years of clock development – the museum has versions I through IV (the winning clock) on display, along with many other attempts. We spent quite a while studying the various mechanisms to understand the maker’s design for overcoming the rolling of the ship that would keep a common pendulum from working properly. The museum also houses many of the clocks that for hundreds of years kept the official World Time, until the now-official atomic clock was developed.

Given that Greenwich is a rather geeky stop, and one that I assumed would only be of interest to someone at least familiar with Greenwich Mean Time, I was rather surprised to hear one of our boating companions exclaim as he exited the boat back in London, “I wonder why it feels warmer in London than it did in Green Which?”

Speaking of green witches, after some R&R time we cleaned up and headed to London’s Theater District for dinner and a play. We had a nice Italian meal before going to the Apollo Victoria Theater to see “Wicked.” Sarah had seen the play in SF, and thought the London version was not as funny but musically better.

Windsor Castle, Runnymede and Salisbury

June 11 Tagged with: Air Forces Memorial, Eric, Kevin, Magna Carta, Runnymede, Salisbury, Sarah, tour, Windsor Castle

Jun 112010

We said goodbye to London today and, being fearful of driving on the left side of the road in London, took a taxi to Heathrow airport to pick up a rental car.

From there it was a short 10 mile drive to our first stop: Windsor Castle. Or it should have been a short 10 mile drive; our GPS was configured to show north-always-up rather than what I’m used to, which is forward-always-up. By the time that confusion was cleared up I had driven another 10 miles out of our way, and in an effort to not insult those in cars near us, spoke ever so eloquently in what I’m told is French.

On to Windsor! The Queen was not in residence this weekend – I suppose she was wagering on the ponies at Ascot – so we took the audio tour instead.

The Windsor Castle Quadrangle

Kevin and Sarah in front of the quadrangle.

Kevin at Eric at Windsor Castle

The next stop was in Runnymede, where the original Magna Carta was signed by King John of England in 1215. The document is considered the founding document of constitutional law, and the American Bar Association has erected a monument on the site to commemorate it.

Kevin and Eric at the ABA's commemorative monument at Runnymede

On top of the hill overlooking Runnymede is the Royal Air Forces Memorial, where 20,000 members of the Commonwealth Air Forces are remembered. These are airmen who lost their lives over the British Isles and Europe in WWII and have no known graves. We stopped there to see the listing of Sarah’s first cousin once removed, Laurence E. Charnaud, who was shot down over the North Sea.

Air Forces Memorial, Runnymede

Flying Officer L.E. Charnaud

An hour and a half later we arrived at our hotel in Salisbury. Tomorrow we’ll tour locally.

The view from atop a hill in Salisbury, though likely not the one Phil Collins sang about.

Stonehenge

June 12 Tagged with: 3D, Eric, Kevin, Stonehenge, tour

Jun 122010

I really don’t get English breakfasts. In London we were pretty smart after the first day and either ate in our apartment or had pastries and coffee across the street. Today we had the hotel breakfast in the dining room – oops. Things look familiar, but taste very strange. Perhaps we’ll learn this time.

We chose to stay in Salisbury since it was close to Stonehenge and has a beautiful cathedral with an original copy of the Magna Carta. Today’s first stop: Stonehenge.

Stonehenge stands amid green rolling hills with roads on two sides, and they’ve done a very nice job of hiding signs of civilization. The visitor center is across the road and down the hill, accessed by an underground tunnel so it isn’t visible from the site. There is a paved pathway around the stones, and a small rope to tell you not to enter closer. It would be nice to walk amongst the stones, but given the amount of traffic it sees I can understand the reason they limit it.

We had mostly flat lighting all day, but you can get a sense of scale from the people along the left.

We took the audio tour which talks about the site, the stones, the myths and theories about their purpose. Like other museums, the audio tour comes on a small device you hold up to your ear after typing in the number of the stop you’re at – it makes it look like everyone there is talking on their cell phones.

A moment of nice light.

Kevin and Eric

Given the flat lighting conditions we had I’m pretty happy with how the pictures came out. I experimented with some stereo pairs, one of which is below:

Stonehenge 'wigglegram' - ooh ooh, 3D! The distance between the images makes it appear smaller that it really is.

Next stop: the English Channel…

Lyme Regis

June 12 Tagged with: boats, Eric, harbor, Kevin, Lyme Regis

Jun 122010

Before leaving the hotel for the day we asked about places along the coast to visit. A number of suggestions were offered up and we chose Lyme Regis – it’s supposed to be very beautiful and not too touristy. It was a few hours of driving, but we enjoyed seeing more of the English countryside.

Our first sighting of the English Channel from Dorchester Road (A35), looking South.

The community itself is a small beach town. There are cabanas along the beaches, a lawn bowling club, and an aquarium/museum on the breakwater.

We arrived at low tide, surprised to see boats in the small harbor sitting on mud. Lyme Regis gets about a 3m (10ft) tide difference twice a day and the harbor was not made in deep water.

Low Tide at Lyme Regis

It was interesting to see the dual keel sailboats that stand upright rather than falling over like a typical sailboat would.

The end of the breakwater protecting the harbor had this stone staircase built into it.

The stone wall protecting the harbor has interesting steps leading down it. The first step is a bit disorienting.

We had lunch in a pub, watched a family launch their ski boat by backing about a hundred feet into the shallow water of the harbor, and headed back to Salisbury.

Salisbury Cathedral, the Magna Carta and World Cup

June 12 Tagged with: Carl, Cathedral, Eric, Kevin, Magna Carta, pub, Salisbury, shadow, World Cup

Jun 122010

Salisbury Cathedral was a short walk from our hotel.

Salisbury Cathedral from inside the Cloisters

Built in the 13th century, it is an incredibly beautiful Gothic Cathedral. We listened to an organ recital for a bit before exploring the rest of the church.

Connected to the church and next to the cloisters is a small building with one of four remaining original copies of the Magna Carta housed within. It is a stunning document to see for its historical significance, its age, and the beauty of the script.

Shadow play in the cloisters, and one of only a few pieces of photographic evidence that I was on the trip.

Enjoying the rare sunlight, we napped in front of the Cathedral.

After nap time on the lawn we ducked into The Wig and Quill pub to watch the qualifying round of the F1 race in Montreal. We grabbed dinner at a nice Italian restaurant down the street and returned to The Wig and Quill to watch England vs. USA in the World Cup. Lucky for us, the game ended in a tie – we neither got beat up nor humiliated with our new drinking buddies.

Good beer and a very friendly local crowd (which is important during an England vs. USA World Cup game).

Hadrian’s Wall

June 14 Tagged with: Carl, Eric, Hadrian's Wall, Kevin, Sarah, tour, Wark

Jun 142010

Our last full day in England, but it’s a very unique one. We scheduled a “Hadrian’s Wall Safari”. Hadrian’s Wall was built starting in 122 AD under Roman Emperor Hadrian. It stretched for 80 miles from the east to the west coasts of Britain, and was the northernmost border of the Roman Empire – to the north: barbarians. Our tour guide, Gary, picked us up in his Range Rover (thus the ‘safari’) around 10am.

Gary's Range Rover, our tour bus for the day

There were many stops along the way, most of which started with a short hike and then a description from Gary about what we were looking at. He did a fantastic job layering the information over the course of the day so that we were building knowledge and understanding about the Roman Empire and early British history, rather than just reading about a particular site.

A relatively intact portion of the wall. Gary's ready to charge up the hill.

At this stop, for example, he explained why the wall was here and not further north or south. But to do so, we had to be at the top of the hill…

Charging up the hill

Gary gives a combination history and geology lesson

It turns out there is a giant fault line here, and the minerals and other assets that an empire might want are primarily to the south. To the north the land is less valuable and not worth the cost of beating down the barbarians.

Fault lines and walls also make for great photo ops.

Photo Op Atop the Crop

Every Roman mile (1,000 paces) along the 80 mile wall was a Mile Castle that acted as a toll gate between the Roman Empire and traders to the north. Between each Mile Castle were two towers, stationing guards every 330 paces for the width of Britain. Below is the foundation of a Mile Castle.

Remains of a Mile Castle

A century before Hadrian built his wall, the Romans had established forts throughout the region. Vindolanda was started around 85AD and was occupied for about 400 years. Over that time it was rebuilt on top of itself many times. There is an extensive excavation going on there now with a fantastic museum. Most significantly, they uncovered wood writing tablets that are still legible, having been protected for almost 2000 years by mud.

Vindolanda excavation - the elevated floor was heated by hot water running through the channels

Crag Lough was another stop along the way. It’s close to Once Brewed, next to Twice Brewed. Twice Brewed was named for the strong ale that the Roman soldiers demanded. Once Brewed was named more recently by the founder of a youth hostel that thought that tea as a better drink to offer.

Crag Lough (that's the lake in the background); Hadrian's Wall runs along the top of the ridge

There is a hiking trail that follows the wall across the country. Most of the wall is not visible now, either because it’s still buried or because the stones were recycled over the years to become smaller walls or farmhouses.

A ladder for hikers to climb over the wall

Lanercost Priory was built by Henry II in the late 1100’s, mostly from stone from Hadrian’s Wall.

Lanercost Priory Door

A long, educational and entertaining day!

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